Scoop on threads

A lot of people don't realize how important using the right machine thread is to the success of your finished sewing project. In a previous blog, I talked about how important it is to use the correct needle for the weight of your fabric. The same is true of your thread - you need to use the correct thread to get the best results.

Threads come in different weights and the weight is usually written on the spool label. I use Gutermann threads for most projects. Since I mostly focus on garment construction, I use 50 wt. 100% polyester thread for most of my sewing. It is a good general purpose thread. It also comes in a 50 wt. cotton thread that is recommended for quilting. The theory here is that since most quilts are made of 100% cotton fabrics, you should use 100% cotton threads so that everything wears at the same rate. A polyester thread may cause a cotton fabric to wear faster.

Embroidery threads come in polyester, cotton and rayon. I prefer Isacord thread for machine embroidery. It is polyester, so it is stronger, resulting in less breakage, and less frustration than cotton or rayon. It has a nice sheen to it, and it is bleach-proof. If you want a matte finish, then use the cotton embroidery thread. I find rayon thread is a source of great frustration, and stay away from it.

If I am sewing on something very light weight, I will use a 60 weight cotton embroidery thread, matched with a size 65 needle. This prevents the seams from puckering. You can see that the larger the number on the weight, the thinner the thread is.

Topstitching thread requires a topstitching needle and you use it only in the top, using regular thread in the bobbin. If your thread is too big for the needle, you will have ugly seams, with major tension issues.

You can get some interesting results using heavier threads in machine embroidery. You will probably need to reduce the density of the design when using a 30 wt or 12 wt thread.

If you have inherited your mother's threads, and they have been around for 15 or so years, you probably should throw them away. Thread will dry-rot over time, and will break easily, resulting in faulty seams.

There are many specialty threads on the market. It's fun to experiment with them to see what exciting things you can come up with.