I recently saw a letter to the editor in the Moultrie News that really disturbed me. I don't know the lady's name who wrote in, but the gist of her letter was that she really wants there to be a couple of new stores in Mt. Pleasant. First she wants a store that sells fabric and then she wants one that sells crafts. What really hit me about this is that what she wants is a Hancock Fabrics and either AC Moore or Michaels. She admits that there are a few independent stores that carry a limited supply of items, but apparently not enough to suit her.
What riled me about her letter is that she wants to destroy what the town of Mt. Pleasant is all about - a community that has flourishing small business owners. I have no idea how long this person has lived here, but I remember when there was a chain fabric store here, and guess what! It closed because it was not profitable. Of course I am partial to the small business owners because I have worked for one for many years. I have watched as the sewing industry has changed drastically from focusing on apparel, to quilting, and I am now seeing it tip a little back toward apparel again because of shows like Project Runway and the popularity of Charleston Fashion Week.
Ever since Walmart discontinued carrying fabrics and notions, I have seen a steady stream of new customers come through our doors. If I had a dollar for every time I have heard " I am so glad to find you! Did you know that Walmart is no longer carrying thread?" I would be a lot wealthier.
Independent stores have many advantages over the chain stores. We are experienced sew-ers who can generally answer any questions you might have. Have you ever tried to get help at Hancocks with a problem you're having understanding pattern directions? I was actually in their store last week to pick up a pattern and there was a couple in there trying to decide if a walking foot would fit their machine. The saleslady's only remark to them was to try not to destroy the packaging when they opened the foot. I finally went over to them, because I could tell they were clueless about how the foot went on, or if it fit. I told them I worked on machines and showed them how to put the foot on properly, and assured them that it would do its job. They were so appreciative of my help, and asked me where I worked and assured me they would stop in next time they were in Mt. Pleasant.
I understand that we have a limited supply of some things. We simply do not have the space to carry major pattern lines. But we do have a good supply of speacialty patterns, threads, zippers, buttons and fabrics. We sell Bernina machines and service all brands. We offer sewing classes, both group and private, and we have kids camps in the summer. And if we don't have what you are looking for, we can generally get it for you. Can they do that for you at Hancocks? Admittedly, our prices may be a little bit higher because we do not receive the quantity discounts the chain stores do. But we make that up in customer service, expertise and convenience.
Hancocks has its place in town, because they do carry all major brands of patterns. I was already in that area last week and stopped in to get a pattern. But shops like Fashion Fabrics, and The Dressing Room in downtown Charleston, deserve kudos for the items we do carry. And as far as crafts go, The Country Bumpkin is another independently owned business. She has a good supply of most items for the crafter.
So support your independent retailers when you can. Locally owned businesses are the backbone of our community. If the chain stores are allowed to invade everywhere, our community will lose a lot of its charm. So you have to occasionally make a field trip to the north area. Plan it accordingly, and make an adventure of it.
Friday, May 21, 2010
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
Pattern sizing
Pattern sizing is very different from ready-to-wear sizing, something that most non-sewing people don't realize. Recently a seamstress was asked to make a graduation dress for someone. The graduate doesn't sew, and wrongly assumed that she would wear the same size pattern that she wears when she goes to a retail store to shop. So she purchased a pattern that included the size that she normally wears, and the corresponding amount of fabric.
For some reason, pattern companies do not make their sizing correspond to ready-to-wear. This slim graduate actually measured a size 10 or 12 according to the pattern size chart. The pattern she purchased did not contain those sizes and the seamstress was forced to re-draft the pattern to the right size. Then she was barely able to cut the pattern out of the fabric correctly because the customer didn't purchase enough fabric.
You have to measure properly and consult the size chart on the pattern to get the right size. Many people are upset when they realize they need a size 10 or 12 pattern when they usually wear a size 4 garment. Remember, folks, it's only a number. Measurements don't lie, and if you need a size 10 pattern, a size 4 will not fit you.
For some reason, pattern companies do not make their sizing correspond to ready-to-wear. This slim graduate actually measured a size 10 or 12 according to the pattern size chart. The pattern she purchased did not contain those sizes and the seamstress was forced to re-draft the pattern to the right size. Then she was barely able to cut the pattern out of the fabric correctly because the customer didn't purchase enough fabric.
You have to measure properly and consult the size chart on the pattern to get the right size. Many people are upset when they realize they need a size 10 or 12 pattern when they usually wear a size 4 garment. Remember, folks, it's only a number. Measurements don't lie, and if you need a size 10 pattern, a size 4 will not fit you.
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Smocking
I love to smock! I love creating those beautiful designs on gorgeous dresses. When my daughter, Elizabeth, was young, I smocked for her a lot and she wore the dresses until she was in first or second grade. Then came about 18 years or so of not having anyone to smock for except for the occasional gift. I missed it terribly, and concentrated more on sewing adult clothing, and teaching others how to sew. Now I have this wonderful granddaughter to smock for again, and I am loving it!
Smocking seems to be an old southern tradition, with many a little Charleston girl wearing the bishop dresses. Because I live in an historic area, I see smocking frequently on the little girls at church. Over the next few blogs, I hope to introduce the basic smocking stitches and create links to some of my favorite books, patterns and designs.
Stay tuned!
Smocking seems to be an old southern tradition, with many a little Charleston girl wearing the bishop dresses. Because I live in an historic area, I see smocking frequently on the little girls at church. Over the next few blogs, I hope to introduce the basic smocking stitches and create links to some of my favorite books, patterns and designs.
Stay tuned!
Wednesday, April 7, 2010
Scoop on threads
A lot of people don't realize how important using the right machine thread is to the success of your finished sewing project. In a previous blog, I talked about how important it is to use the correct needle for the weight of your fabric. The same is true of your thread - you need to use the correct thread to get the best results.
Threads come in different weights and the weight is usually written on the spool label. I use Gutermann threads for most projects. Since I mostly focus on garment construction, I use 50 wt. 100% polyester thread for most of my sewing. It is a good general purpose thread. It also comes in a 50 wt. cotton thread that is recommended for quilting. The theory here is that since most quilts are made of 100% cotton fabrics, you should use 100% cotton threads so that everything wears at the same rate. A polyester thread may cause a cotton fabric to wear faster.
Embroidery threads come in polyester, cotton and rayon. I prefer Isacord thread for machine embroidery. It is polyester, so it is stronger, resulting in less breakage, and less frustration than cotton or rayon. It has a nice sheen to it, and it is bleach-proof. If you want a matte finish, then use the cotton embroidery thread. I find rayon thread is a source of great frustration, and stay away from it.
If I am sewing on something very light weight, I will use a 60 weight cotton embroidery thread, matched with a size 65 needle. This prevents the seams from puckering. You can see that the larger the number on the weight, the thinner the thread is.
Topstitching thread requires a topstitching needle and you use it only in the top, using regular thread in the bobbin. If your thread is too big for the needle, you will have ugly seams, with major tension issues.
You can get some interesting results using heavier threads in machine embroidery. You will probably need to reduce the density of the design when using a 30 wt or 12 wt thread.
If you have inherited your mother's threads, and they have been around for 15 or so years, you probably should throw them away. Thread will dry-rot over time, and will break easily, resulting in faulty seams.
There are many specialty threads on the market. It's fun to experiment with them to see what exciting things you can come up with.
Threads come in different weights and the weight is usually written on the spool label. I use Gutermann threads for most projects. Since I mostly focus on garment construction, I use 50 wt. 100% polyester thread for most of my sewing. It is a good general purpose thread. It also comes in a 50 wt. cotton thread that is recommended for quilting. The theory here is that since most quilts are made of 100% cotton fabrics, you should use 100% cotton threads so that everything wears at the same rate. A polyester thread may cause a cotton fabric to wear faster.
Embroidery threads come in polyester, cotton and rayon. I prefer Isacord thread for machine embroidery. It is polyester, so it is stronger, resulting in less breakage, and less frustration than cotton or rayon. It has a nice sheen to it, and it is bleach-proof. If you want a matte finish, then use the cotton embroidery thread. I find rayon thread is a source of great frustration, and stay away from it.
If I am sewing on something very light weight, I will use a 60 weight cotton embroidery thread, matched with a size 65 needle. This prevents the seams from puckering. You can see that the larger the number on the weight, the thinner the thread is.
Topstitching thread requires a topstitching needle and you use it only in the top, using regular thread in the bobbin. If your thread is too big for the needle, you will have ugly seams, with major tension issues.
You can get some interesting results using heavier threads in machine embroidery. You will probably need to reduce the density of the design when using a 30 wt or 12 wt thread.
If you have inherited your mother's threads, and they have been around for 15 or so years, you probably should throw them away. Thread will dry-rot over time, and will break easily, resulting in faulty seams.
There are many specialty threads on the market. It's fun to experiment with them to see what exciting things you can come up with.
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
Never insult your customers
This really isn't about sewing as much as it is about customer service. The other day, my daughter and I took Zoe into a local children's specialty shop here in Mt. Pleasant. Elizabeth had never been in there before and I wanted her to see all of the pretty things they had. I won't mention it by name, but it is located on Coleman Blvd close to where I work.
We were oohing and aahing over everything, visualizing Zoe in some of the cute outfits, but mostly looking at accessories like hats and hairbows. This is a fairly pricey store, and with my expertise in sewing, I have a hard time paying a lot of money for things I know I can make for a lot less money, and they will be better made than what I can buy. And this particular day, I just wanted Elizabeth to see what they carried.
As we browsed through the store, the owner appeared from somewhere. She knows me, knows I sew, and we greeted each other cordially. Then a few minutes later, I heard her say, "Some people come in here just to see what we have."
I was stunned. She knows I could make anything in that store, but I was insulted that she would say something like that so I could hear it. Yes, I was looking to see what she had, but isn't that what shopping is all about? I frequently go into stores to "see what they have." Sometimes I buy, and sometimes I don't. I thought to myself, "maybe that wasn't really directed at me." My daughter did not hear her say this and I suggested we leave without buying anything. When I told Elizabeth what she said, she assured me that it was directed at me, and that she would never go back into that store. And neither will I.
I always think of things to say after the moment has passed, and I should have said,
"I am so glad your business is going so well that you can afford to offend your customers."
You see, "word of mouth" can be positive or negative. In this economy, I cannot imagine that any business has all of the customers they want. And I know a lot of people with children and grandchildren.
We were oohing and aahing over everything, visualizing Zoe in some of the cute outfits, but mostly looking at accessories like hats and hairbows. This is a fairly pricey store, and with my expertise in sewing, I have a hard time paying a lot of money for things I know I can make for a lot less money, and they will be better made than what I can buy. And this particular day, I just wanted Elizabeth to see what they carried.
As we browsed through the store, the owner appeared from somewhere. She knows me, knows I sew, and we greeted each other cordially. Then a few minutes later, I heard her say, "Some people come in here just to see what we have."
I was stunned. She knows I could make anything in that store, but I was insulted that she would say something like that so I could hear it. Yes, I was looking to see what she had, but isn't that what shopping is all about? I frequently go into stores to "see what they have." Sometimes I buy, and sometimes I don't. I thought to myself, "maybe that wasn't really directed at me." My daughter did not hear her say this and I suggested we leave without buying anything. When I told Elizabeth what she said, she assured me that it was directed at me, and that she would never go back into that store. And neither will I.
I always think of things to say after the moment has passed, and I should have said,
"I am so glad your business is going so well that you can afford to offend your customers."
You see, "word of mouth" can be positive or negative. In this economy, I cannot imagine that any business has all of the customers they want. And I know a lot of people with children and grandchildren.
Friday, March 26, 2010
Why buy from a dealer?
I am often asked the question," why should I buy a sewing machine from a dealer when I can get one cheaper somewhere else?"
This is a tough question for a dealer, and one we are constantly up against. There are two schools of thought here. You can certainly purchase a machine from a "big box store" (Walmart, Kmart, Target) at a slightly cheaper price. But then you are on your own. You don't have anyone to show you how the machine works. If you are an experienced sew-er (there's that word again) you may not have any problems figuring out the machine. But if you are an experienced sew-er, you will also want a machine with features that help you sew easier. The occasional sew-er, one who only uses it for mending, will probably be OK with a lesser machine. But the occasional sew-er is also the one who will have more trouble with the machine because she lacks the knowledge and experience to operate the machine properly. The occasional sew-er will benefit from having someone show her the correct way to thread and operate the machine, a service you will not get from a "big box" store.
The second school of thought is to purchase a machine from the internet. There are certainly some good deals out there, but this is a case of "buyer beware." I have seen people purchase Bernina machines from the internet only to get just the machine, without the accessories. Is that really a deal? It's hard to make it go if you don't get the foot control and presser foot. The other thing we see is that someone purchases from the internet, then when there are problems with the machine, they want us to repair it under warranty. Guess what! Unless you purchase from an authorized dealer, the warranty is invalid. That's a 20 year warranty that is voided.
So you have to decide if coming to a dealer is worth the extra cost. Lessons on how to use the machine and the first year's service is included in the cost of the machine. And the lessons can be repeated as often as needed. And finally, we have a trade-up policy that allows you to trade the machine back in within the first year, and you receive the full sales price toward the retail of another machine. It's a great reason to support your local dealer! Plus purchasing machines and accessories keeps this small business in business.
You don't get that kind of service from a "big box store!"
This is a tough question for a dealer, and one we are constantly up against. There are two schools of thought here. You can certainly purchase a machine from a "big box store" (Walmart, Kmart, Target) at a slightly cheaper price. But then you are on your own. You don't have anyone to show you how the machine works. If you are an experienced sew-er (there's that word again) you may not have any problems figuring out the machine. But if you are an experienced sew-er, you will also want a machine with features that help you sew easier. The occasional sew-er, one who only uses it for mending, will probably be OK with a lesser machine. But the occasional sew-er is also the one who will have more trouble with the machine because she lacks the knowledge and experience to operate the machine properly. The occasional sew-er will benefit from having someone show her the correct way to thread and operate the machine, a service you will not get from a "big box" store.
The second school of thought is to purchase a machine from the internet. There are certainly some good deals out there, but this is a case of "buyer beware." I have seen people purchase Bernina machines from the internet only to get just the machine, without the accessories. Is that really a deal? It's hard to make it go if you don't get the foot control and presser foot. The other thing we see is that someone purchases from the internet, then when there are problems with the machine, they want us to repair it under warranty. Guess what! Unless you purchase from an authorized dealer, the warranty is invalid. That's a 20 year warranty that is voided.
So you have to decide if coming to a dealer is worth the extra cost. Lessons on how to use the machine and the first year's service is included in the cost of the machine. And the lessons can be repeated as often as needed. And finally, we have a trade-up policy that allows you to trade the machine back in within the first year, and you receive the full sales price toward the retail of another machine. It's a great reason to support your local dealer! Plus purchasing machines and accessories keeps this small business in business.
You don't get that kind of service from a "big box store!"
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
What's needling you?
A lot of people who sew ( I have a hard time calling them sewers in print) don't have a clue as to how important their needle is to the successful completion of their project. Today's topic is all about needles.
Several days ago, a customer called the shop to ask if we carried Singer sewing machine needles. We have a limited supply of Singer needles, because most machines can use the Schmetz brand of needles and we have a much larger supply of those. I told the customer this and she remarked that she had a very old Singer. I assured her we could help her and a few hours later, she came in and had with her a package of needles that looked like the original package that came with the machine. Inside the package were pieces and parts of needles, some obviously broken and others obviously bent.
She asked us for needles for her machine, and we asked her what size needle she needed. She said one that was like the ones in the package. We then told her that the size needle she needed depended on what fabric she was using. She was incredulous, asking us how we knew the needle would fit her machine. Sometimes we have trouble keeping our faces straight when we come across something that is so obvious to us. This dear lady was thinking that the size of the needle meant how long it is, not the diameter of it. That's why she was concerned that it wouldn't fit in her machine.
Most machines made in the last 30 years or so take the same type of needle: 130/705. The variations come in the diameter of the needle and the different points they have. Most of the time you will need a universal needle, which sews most woven fabrics. They range in sizes from a 60/8 (for very lightweight fabrics like chiffon) to a 110/18 (for very heavy fabrics. I can't even think of an example here because when I sew very heavy fabrics, I use a denim needle with a sharper point.) What do the two sets of numbers mean? The 60 is the metric version, and the 8 is the American one.
What happens if you use the wrong needle? If your fabric is very thin, and you use a needle that is too big, your seams will pucker and you will have large needle holes in your fabric. If your needle is too small, it will break.
What other kinds of points do needles have? There are a lot of specialty needles out there: quilting, embroidery, metallic, jeans and ballpoints to name a few. Each one is designed specifically for the task at hand. Quilting needles have sharper points to penetrate the layers of fabric involved in a quilt. Embroidery needles again have a sharper point to go through the fabrics as well as stabilizers. Metallic needles have a different hole in them designed to reduce the amount of friction that builds of when using metallic threads. Jeans needles are generally stronger and sharper, to go through the dense denim fabric. Ballpoints have a more rounded point to use on knits, so that the fibers are pushed out of the way, rather than broken, so your knit won't run like nylon stockings. There are other specialty needles too, but these are the usual ones.
The other mistake that people make is not changing their needle frequently. It is nearly impossible to tell if a needle is slightly bent or burred on the end. If a needle is not perfect, when it goes down to meet up with the bobbin thread, it can hit a vital part of your sewing machine. This often causes a burr on the hook, that vital part I was talking about, and the result of that can be threads that keep breaking. It can also result in ugly, crunchy noises, and those are never good for your machine.
So I change my needle when I begin a new project. There are two reasons for this. First of all, I want to match the size of my needle to the weight of my fabric. At this stage in my life, I have "mature" eyes, and I can no longer read the size that is etched into the shank of each needle. But I can read the much larger notation on the outside of the package. The other reason is I want to start my project with a new needle, because chances are I have used the old one longer than 6 - 8 hours of actual sewing time.
So make sure you use the correct needle and you shouldn't have a problem with your project. If you don't know what needle to use, just ask. It really is one of the easiest things that can cause the most problems. When someone is having trouble with their machine, the first thing I ask is, "When was the last time you changed your needle?"
www.schmetzneedles.com
Several days ago, a customer called the shop to ask if we carried Singer sewing machine needles. We have a limited supply of Singer needles, because most machines can use the Schmetz brand of needles and we have a much larger supply of those. I told the customer this and she remarked that she had a very old Singer. I assured her we could help her and a few hours later, she came in and had with her a package of needles that looked like the original package that came with the machine. Inside the package were pieces and parts of needles, some obviously broken and others obviously bent.
She asked us for needles for her machine, and we asked her what size needle she needed. She said one that was like the ones in the package. We then told her that the size needle she needed depended on what fabric she was using. She was incredulous, asking us how we knew the needle would fit her machine. Sometimes we have trouble keeping our faces straight when we come across something that is so obvious to us. This dear lady was thinking that the size of the needle meant how long it is, not the diameter of it. That's why she was concerned that it wouldn't fit in her machine.
Most machines made in the last 30 years or so take the same type of needle: 130/705. The variations come in the diameter of the needle and the different points they have. Most of the time you will need a universal needle, which sews most woven fabrics. They range in sizes from a 60/8 (for very lightweight fabrics like chiffon) to a 110/18 (for very heavy fabrics. I can't even think of an example here because when I sew very heavy fabrics, I use a denim needle with a sharper point.) What do the two sets of numbers mean? The 60 is the metric version, and the 8 is the American one.
What happens if you use the wrong needle? If your fabric is very thin, and you use a needle that is too big, your seams will pucker and you will have large needle holes in your fabric. If your needle is too small, it will break.
What other kinds of points do needles have? There are a lot of specialty needles out there: quilting, embroidery, metallic, jeans and ballpoints to name a few. Each one is designed specifically for the task at hand. Quilting needles have sharper points to penetrate the layers of fabric involved in a quilt. Embroidery needles again have a sharper point to go through the fabrics as well as stabilizers. Metallic needles have a different hole in them designed to reduce the amount of friction that builds of when using metallic threads. Jeans needles are generally stronger and sharper, to go through the dense denim fabric. Ballpoints have a more rounded point to use on knits, so that the fibers are pushed out of the way, rather than broken, so your knit won't run like nylon stockings. There are other specialty needles too, but these are the usual ones.
The other mistake that people make is not changing their needle frequently. It is nearly impossible to tell if a needle is slightly bent or burred on the end. If a needle is not perfect, when it goes down to meet up with the bobbin thread, it can hit a vital part of your sewing machine. This often causes a burr on the hook, that vital part I was talking about, and the result of that can be threads that keep breaking. It can also result in ugly, crunchy noises, and those are never good for your machine.
So I change my needle when I begin a new project. There are two reasons for this. First of all, I want to match the size of my needle to the weight of my fabric. At this stage in my life, I have "mature" eyes, and I can no longer read the size that is etched into the shank of each needle. But I can read the much larger notation on the outside of the package. The other reason is I want to start my project with a new needle, because chances are I have used the old one longer than 6 - 8 hours of actual sewing time.
So make sure you use the correct needle and you shouldn't have a problem with your project. If you don't know what needle to use, just ask. It really is one of the easiest things that can cause the most problems. When someone is having trouble with their machine, the first thing I ask is, "When was the last time you changed your needle?"
www.schmetzneedles.com
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Why I sew
Through the years I have sewn many different types of things: garment construction for women, children and a few things for men, smocking, heirloom sewing, embroidery and even a little quilting, anything that can be done with a needle and thread. I began sewing a long time ago, when I was 13 and wanted stylish clothing. There was not a lot of money around our house, so sewing allowed me to have things that were in style at a lesser cost. In those days, you could save a good bit of money because fabric and notions were less expensive than ready to wear. My mom showed me some basics of pattern reading and I was off. The first garments were actually sewn on a treadle sewing machine that I still have. No I'm not that old - we did have electricity. But as I said, money was tight and my mom saved her green stamps to buy a Singer portable sewing machine. Finally a machine that would run under its own power and would do more than straight stitch forward.
Through junior high, high school and college, I made most of my own clothing. There were things that turned out well, and things that were disastrous, but all in all, I did pretty well. In college, I decided to major in Fashion Merchandising, where I took three sewing classes. The first was just a basic sewing class designed to give me skills I already had. The second was a tailoring class, where we spent a whole semester making a wool blazer, welt pockets and all. The final sewing class was called Flat Pattern and we were required to start with a basic sloper pattern and make all kinds of alterations to it to achieve various design elements. For our final exam, the instructor put a jacket with some unusual details on a mannequin and told us to make the pattern for it. To me this was the class that taught me the most. From it, I gained a true understanding of how garments go together and what is required to achieve the design elements I might want. I still use this knowledge today, some thirty years later. Whenever I am designing something, I still like to start with a pattern that is similar in silhouette and make the necessary changes to it to achieve the look I want.
When I became pregnant with my first child, I developed an interest in smocking. My next door neighbor was pregnant at the same time, and she knew how to smock. She showed me some basic stitches, and loaned me a book on smocking. When my child turned out to be a girl, I was delighted to be able to make her some sweet little outfits. Then my son was born, and I was able to make some neat little boy outfits for him as well. He soon outgrew them, but my daughter wore her little dresses up until she was in second or third grade. Her teachers knew her as "that little girl whose mommy makes her all of those sweet little dresses." And now this daughter has blessed me with a sweet granddaughter to sew for, so I am back in smocking mode!
As my daughter outgrew the smocking, I turned my interests into more adult clothing. During this time, I began working at a local fabric store that sold Bernina machines, and carried luscious fabrics for garments. I still work for this neat little shop. We sold beautiful silks, rayon challis, bridal fabrics, yummy cottons and linens. I of course knew the basics of sewing and during this time, worked toward making my sewing perfect. Gone were the days of taking shortcuts that nobody would know I took. Instead, my garments were as perfect on the inside as they were on the outside. As the sewing industry started turning away from garment sewing, and more towards quilting, the shop started bringing in more quilting fabrics and fewer garment fabrics. I tried to embrace this move, but honestly I am not a quilter and never will be. I have made two quilts in my life, and there was ten years between them. I can certainly appreciate the work that goes into them, and the eye for color that so many quilters have. But cutting fabric into little pieces then sewing them back together is just not for me.
I also started teaching a lot of private lessons at the shop. We offer some basic classes - beginning sewing and smocking, among others. Once students have gone through the basic classes, we find that many of them have very specific paths they want to venture into. That's where these private classes come in - one on one instruction pertaining specifically to the student's interest. I have had several very successful students, including two young ladies who were featured designers several years ago during Charleston Fashion Week. This has become a really big deal in our area, and this, along with Project Runway on television has really rekindled an interest in garment sewing.
Another thing that I have mastered over the last few years is a deeper understanding of sewing machines - how they work and what to do to keep them going. When I could no longer get the fabrics I loved for garments, I decided to become a machine technician. I have been trained to take the machines apart and put them back together, and usually don't come out with any spare screws when I'm finished. One of my jobs is to teach new machine owners how to use their machine. Not only do I show them what all of the buttons mean and how to use different stitches for different techniques, but I also teach them how they can troubleshoot their machine when they are having problems. Today's technology is amazing, and we have come a very long way since that treadle machine I learned on!
I started sewing as a teenager out of necessity, but now my sewing is a hobby I have been able to make a little bit of money from through the years. My plan with this blog is to share some of the knowledge I have acquired through the years. I have taught many classes and will begin sharing some of those. I love sharing my knowledge with others, and love to see them get as excited about sewing as I am.
Through junior high, high school and college, I made most of my own clothing. There were things that turned out well, and things that were disastrous, but all in all, I did pretty well. In college, I decided to major in Fashion Merchandising, where I took three sewing classes. The first was just a basic sewing class designed to give me skills I already had. The second was a tailoring class, where we spent a whole semester making a wool blazer, welt pockets and all. The final sewing class was called Flat Pattern and we were required to start with a basic sloper pattern and make all kinds of alterations to it to achieve various design elements. For our final exam, the instructor put a jacket with some unusual details on a mannequin and told us to make the pattern for it. To me this was the class that taught me the most. From it, I gained a true understanding of how garments go together and what is required to achieve the design elements I might want. I still use this knowledge today, some thirty years later. Whenever I am designing something, I still like to start with a pattern that is similar in silhouette and make the necessary changes to it to achieve the look I want.
When I became pregnant with my first child, I developed an interest in smocking. My next door neighbor was pregnant at the same time, and she knew how to smock. She showed me some basic stitches, and loaned me a book on smocking. When my child turned out to be a girl, I was delighted to be able to make her some sweet little outfits. Then my son was born, and I was able to make some neat little boy outfits for him as well. He soon outgrew them, but my daughter wore her little dresses up until she was in second or third grade. Her teachers knew her as "that little girl whose mommy makes her all of those sweet little dresses." And now this daughter has blessed me with a sweet granddaughter to sew for, so I am back in smocking mode!
As my daughter outgrew the smocking, I turned my interests into more adult clothing. During this time, I began working at a local fabric store that sold Bernina machines, and carried luscious fabrics for garments. I still work for this neat little shop. We sold beautiful silks, rayon challis, bridal fabrics, yummy cottons and linens. I of course knew the basics of sewing and during this time, worked toward making my sewing perfect. Gone were the days of taking shortcuts that nobody would know I took. Instead, my garments were as perfect on the inside as they were on the outside. As the sewing industry started turning away from garment sewing, and more towards quilting, the shop started bringing in more quilting fabrics and fewer garment fabrics. I tried to embrace this move, but honestly I am not a quilter and never will be. I have made two quilts in my life, and there was ten years between them. I can certainly appreciate the work that goes into them, and the eye for color that so many quilters have. But cutting fabric into little pieces then sewing them back together is just not for me.
I also started teaching a lot of private lessons at the shop. We offer some basic classes - beginning sewing and smocking, among others. Once students have gone through the basic classes, we find that many of them have very specific paths they want to venture into. That's where these private classes come in - one on one instruction pertaining specifically to the student's interest. I have had several very successful students, including two young ladies who were featured designers several years ago during Charleston Fashion Week. This has become a really big deal in our area, and this, along with Project Runway on television has really rekindled an interest in garment sewing.
Another thing that I have mastered over the last few years is a deeper understanding of sewing machines - how they work and what to do to keep them going. When I could no longer get the fabrics I loved for garments, I decided to become a machine technician. I have been trained to take the machines apart and put them back together, and usually don't come out with any spare screws when I'm finished. One of my jobs is to teach new machine owners how to use their machine. Not only do I show them what all of the buttons mean and how to use different stitches for different techniques, but I also teach them how they can troubleshoot their machine when they are having problems. Today's technology is amazing, and we have come a very long way since that treadle machine I learned on!
I started sewing as a teenager out of necessity, but now my sewing is a hobby I have been able to make a little bit of money from through the years. My plan with this blog is to share some of the knowledge I have acquired through the years. I have taught many classes and will begin sharing some of those. I love sharing my knowledge with others, and love to see them get as excited about sewing as I am.
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