I recently saw a letter to the editor in the Moultrie News that really disturbed me. I don't know the lady's name who wrote in, but the gist of her letter was that she really wants there to be a couple of new stores in Mt. Pleasant. First she wants a store that sells fabric and then she wants one that sells crafts. What really hit me about this is that what she wants is a Hancock Fabrics and either AC Moore or Michaels. She admits that there are a few independent stores that carry a limited supply of items, but apparently not enough to suit her.
What riled me about her letter is that she wants to destroy what the town of Mt. Pleasant is all about - a community that has flourishing small business owners. I have no idea how long this person has lived here, but I remember when there was a chain fabric store here, and guess what! It closed because it was not profitable. Of course I am partial to the small business owners because I have worked for one for many years. I have watched as the sewing industry has changed drastically from focusing on apparel, to quilting, and I am now seeing it tip a little back toward apparel again because of shows like Project Runway and the popularity of Charleston Fashion Week.
Ever since Walmart discontinued carrying fabrics and notions, I have seen a steady stream of new customers come through our doors. If I had a dollar for every time I have heard " I am so glad to find you! Did you know that Walmart is no longer carrying thread?" I would be a lot wealthier.
Independent stores have many advantages over the chain stores. We are experienced sew-ers who can generally answer any questions you might have. Have you ever tried to get help at Hancocks with a problem you're having understanding pattern directions? I was actually in their store last week to pick up a pattern and there was a couple in there trying to decide if a walking foot would fit their machine. The saleslady's only remark to them was to try not to destroy the packaging when they opened the foot. I finally went over to them, because I could tell they were clueless about how the foot went on, or if it fit. I told them I worked on machines and showed them how to put the foot on properly, and assured them that it would do its job. They were so appreciative of my help, and asked me where I worked and assured me they would stop in next time they were in Mt. Pleasant.
I understand that we have a limited supply of some things. We simply do not have the space to carry major pattern lines. But we do have a good supply of speacialty patterns, threads, zippers, buttons and fabrics. We sell Bernina machines and service all brands. We offer sewing classes, both group and private, and we have kids camps in the summer. And if we don't have what you are looking for, we can generally get it for you. Can they do that for you at Hancocks? Admittedly, our prices may be a little bit higher because we do not receive the quantity discounts the chain stores do. But we make that up in customer service, expertise and convenience.
Hancocks has its place in town, because they do carry all major brands of patterns. I was already in that area last week and stopped in to get a pattern. But shops like Fashion Fabrics, and The Dressing Room in downtown Charleston, deserve kudos for the items we do carry. And as far as crafts go, The Country Bumpkin is another independently owned business. She has a good supply of most items for the crafter.
So support your independent retailers when you can. Locally owned businesses are the backbone of our community. If the chain stores are allowed to invade everywhere, our community will lose a lot of its charm. So you have to occasionally make a field trip to the north area. Plan it accordingly, and make an adventure of it.
Friday, May 21, 2010
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
Pattern sizing
Pattern sizing is very different from ready-to-wear sizing, something that most non-sewing people don't realize. Recently a seamstress was asked to make a graduation dress for someone. The graduate doesn't sew, and wrongly assumed that she would wear the same size pattern that she wears when she goes to a retail store to shop. So she purchased a pattern that included the size that she normally wears, and the corresponding amount of fabric.
For some reason, pattern companies do not make their sizing correspond to ready-to-wear. This slim graduate actually measured a size 10 or 12 according to the pattern size chart. The pattern she purchased did not contain those sizes and the seamstress was forced to re-draft the pattern to the right size. Then she was barely able to cut the pattern out of the fabric correctly because the customer didn't purchase enough fabric.
You have to measure properly and consult the size chart on the pattern to get the right size. Many people are upset when they realize they need a size 10 or 12 pattern when they usually wear a size 4 garment. Remember, folks, it's only a number. Measurements don't lie, and if you need a size 10 pattern, a size 4 will not fit you.
For some reason, pattern companies do not make their sizing correspond to ready-to-wear. This slim graduate actually measured a size 10 or 12 according to the pattern size chart. The pattern she purchased did not contain those sizes and the seamstress was forced to re-draft the pattern to the right size. Then she was barely able to cut the pattern out of the fabric correctly because the customer didn't purchase enough fabric.
You have to measure properly and consult the size chart on the pattern to get the right size. Many people are upset when they realize they need a size 10 or 12 pattern when they usually wear a size 4 garment. Remember, folks, it's only a number. Measurements don't lie, and if you need a size 10 pattern, a size 4 will not fit you.
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Smocking
I love to smock! I love creating those beautiful designs on gorgeous dresses. When my daughter, Elizabeth, was young, I smocked for her a lot and she wore the dresses until she was in first or second grade. Then came about 18 years or so of not having anyone to smock for except for the occasional gift. I missed it terribly, and concentrated more on sewing adult clothing, and teaching others how to sew. Now I have this wonderful granddaughter to smock for again, and I am loving it!
Smocking seems to be an old southern tradition, with many a little Charleston girl wearing the bishop dresses. Because I live in an historic area, I see smocking frequently on the little girls at church. Over the next few blogs, I hope to introduce the basic smocking stitches and create links to some of my favorite books, patterns and designs.
Stay tuned!
Smocking seems to be an old southern tradition, with many a little Charleston girl wearing the bishop dresses. Because I live in an historic area, I see smocking frequently on the little girls at church. Over the next few blogs, I hope to introduce the basic smocking stitches and create links to some of my favorite books, patterns and designs.
Stay tuned!
Wednesday, April 7, 2010
Scoop on threads
A lot of people don't realize how important using the right machine thread is to the success of your finished sewing project. In a previous blog, I talked about how important it is to use the correct needle for the weight of your fabric. The same is true of your thread - you need to use the correct thread to get the best results.
Threads come in different weights and the weight is usually written on the spool label. I use Gutermann threads for most projects. Since I mostly focus on garment construction, I use 50 wt. 100% polyester thread for most of my sewing. It is a good general purpose thread. It also comes in a 50 wt. cotton thread that is recommended for quilting. The theory here is that since most quilts are made of 100% cotton fabrics, you should use 100% cotton threads so that everything wears at the same rate. A polyester thread may cause a cotton fabric to wear faster.
Embroidery threads come in polyester, cotton and rayon. I prefer Isacord thread for machine embroidery. It is polyester, so it is stronger, resulting in less breakage, and less frustration than cotton or rayon. It has a nice sheen to it, and it is bleach-proof. If you want a matte finish, then use the cotton embroidery thread. I find rayon thread is a source of great frustration, and stay away from it.
If I am sewing on something very light weight, I will use a 60 weight cotton embroidery thread, matched with a size 65 needle. This prevents the seams from puckering. You can see that the larger the number on the weight, the thinner the thread is.
Topstitching thread requires a topstitching needle and you use it only in the top, using regular thread in the bobbin. If your thread is too big for the needle, you will have ugly seams, with major tension issues.
You can get some interesting results using heavier threads in machine embroidery. You will probably need to reduce the density of the design when using a 30 wt or 12 wt thread.
If you have inherited your mother's threads, and they have been around for 15 or so years, you probably should throw them away. Thread will dry-rot over time, and will break easily, resulting in faulty seams.
There are many specialty threads on the market. It's fun to experiment with them to see what exciting things you can come up with.
Threads come in different weights and the weight is usually written on the spool label. I use Gutermann threads for most projects. Since I mostly focus on garment construction, I use 50 wt. 100% polyester thread for most of my sewing. It is a good general purpose thread. It also comes in a 50 wt. cotton thread that is recommended for quilting. The theory here is that since most quilts are made of 100% cotton fabrics, you should use 100% cotton threads so that everything wears at the same rate. A polyester thread may cause a cotton fabric to wear faster.
Embroidery threads come in polyester, cotton and rayon. I prefer Isacord thread for machine embroidery. It is polyester, so it is stronger, resulting in less breakage, and less frustration than cotton or rayon. It has a nice sheen to it, and it is bleach-proof. If you want a matte finish, then use the cotton embroidery thread. I find rayon thread is a source of great frustration, and stay away from it.
If I am sewing on something very light weight, I will use a 60 weight cotton embroidery thread, matched with a size 65 needle. This prevents the seams from puckering. You can see that the larger the number on the weight, the thinner the thread is.
Topstitching thread requires a topstitching needle and you use it only in the top, using regular thread in the bobbin. If your thread is too big for the needle, you will have ugly seams, with major tension issues.
You can get some interesting results using heavier threads in machine embroidery. You will probably need to reduce the density of the design when using a 30 wt or 12 wt thread.
If you have inherited your mother's threads, and they have been around for 15 or so years, you probably should throw them away. Thread will dry-rot over time, and will break easily, resulting in faulty seams.
There are many specialty threads on the market. It's fun to experiment with them to see what exciting things you can come up with.
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
Never insult your customers
This really isn't about sewing as much as it is about customer service. The other day, my daughter and I took Zoe into a local children's specialty shop here in Mt. Pleasant. Elizabeth had never been in there before and I wanted her to see all of the pretty things they had. I won't mention it by name, but it is located on Coleman Blvd close to where I work.
We were oohing and aahing over everything, visualizing Zoe in some of the cute outfits, but mostly looking at accessories like hats and hairbows. This is a fairly pricey store, and with my expertise in sewing, I have a hard time paying a lot of money for things I know I can make for a lot less money, and they will be better made than what I can buy. And this particular day, I just wanted Elizabeth to see what they carried.
As we browsed through the store, the owner appeared from somewhere. She knows me, knows I sew, and we greeted each other cordially. Then a few minutes later, I heard her say, "Some people come in here just to see what we have."
I was stunned. She knows I could make anything in that store, but I was insulted that she would say something like that so I could hear it. Yes, I was looking to see what she had, but isn't that what shopping is all about? I frequently go into stores to "see what they have." Sometimes I buy, and sometimes I don't. I thought to myself, "maybe that wasn't really directed at me." My daughter did not hear her say this and I suggested we leave without buying anything. When I told Elizabeth what she said, she assured me that it was directed at me, and that she would never go back into that store. And neither will I.
I always think of things to say after the moment has passed, and I should have said,
"I am so glad your business is going so well that you can afford to offend your customers."
You see, "word of mouth" can be positive or negative. In this economy, I cannot imagine that any business has all of the customers they want. And I know a lot of people with children and grandchildren.
We were oohing and aahing over everything, visualizing Zoe in some of the cute outfits, but mostly looking at accessories like hats and hairbows. This is a fairly pricey store, and with my expertise in sewing, I have a hard time paying a lot of money for things I know I can make for a lot less money, and they will be better made than what I can buy. And this particular day, I just wanted Elizabeth to see what they carried.
As we browsed through the store, the owner appeared from somewhere. She knows me, knows I sew, and we greeted each other cordially. Then a few minutes later, I heard her say, "Some people come in here just to see what we have."
I was stunned. She knows I could make anything in that store, but I was insulted that she would say something like that so I could hear it. Yes, I was looking to see what she had, but isn't that what shopping is all about? I frequently go into stores to "see what they have." Sometimes I buy, and sometimes I don't. I thought to myself, "maybe that wasn't really directed at me." My daughter did not hear her say this and I suggested we leave without buying anything. When I told Elizabeth what she said, she assured me that it was directed at me, and that she would never go back into that store. And neither will I.
I always think of things to say after the moment has passed, and I should have said,
"I am so glad your business is going so well that you can afford to offend your customers."
You see, "word of mouth" can be positive or negative. In this economy, I cannot imagine that any business has all of the customers they want. And I know a lot of people with children and grandchildren.
Friday, March 26, 2010
Why buy from a dealer?
I am often asked the question," why should I buy a sewing machine from a dealer when I can get one cheaper somewhere else?"
This is a tough question for a dealer, and one we are constantly up against. There are two schools of thought here. You can certainly purchase a machine from a "big box store" (Walmart, Kmart, Target) at a slightly cheaper price. But then you are on your own. You don't have anyone to show you how the machine works. If you are an experienced sew-er (there's that word again) you may not have any problems figuring out the machine. But if you are an experienced sew-er, you will also want a machine with features that help you sew easier. The occasional sew-er, one who only uses it for mending, will probably be OK with a lesser machine. But the occasional sew-er is also the one who will have more trouble with the machine because she lacks the knowledge and experience to operate the machine properly. The occasional sew-er will benefit from having someone show her the correct way to thread and operate the machine, a service you will not get from a "big box" store.
The second school of thought is to purchase a machine from the internet. There are certainly some good deals out there, but this is a case of "buyer beware." I have seen people purchase Bernina machines from the internet only to get just the machine, without the accessories. Is that really a deal? It's hard to make it go if you don't get the foot control and presser foot. The other thing we see is that someone purchases from the internet, then when there are problems with the machine, they want us to repair it under warranty. Guess what! Unless you purchase from an authorized dealer, the warranty is invalid. That's a 20 year warranty that is voided.
So you have to decide if coming to a dealer is worth the extra cost. Lessons on how to use the machine and the first year's service is included in the cost of the machine. And the lessons can be repeated as often as needed. And finally, we have a trade-up policy that allows you to trade the machine back in within the first year, and you receive the full sales price toward the retail of another machine. It's a great reason to support your local dealer! Plus purchasing machines and accessories keeps this small business in business.
You don't get that kind of service from a "big box store!"
This is a tough question for a dealer, and one we are constantly up against. There are two schools of thought here. You can certainly purchase a machine from a "big box store" (Walmart, Kmart, Target) at a slightly cheaper price. But then you are on your own. You don't have anyone to show you how the machine works. If you are an experienced sew-er (there's that word again) you may not have any problems figuring out the machine. But if you are an experienced sew-er, you will also want a machine with features that help you sew easier. The occasional sew-er, one who only uses it for mending, will probably be OK with a lesser machine. But the occasional sew-er is also the one who will have more trouble with the machine because she lacks the knowledge and experience to operate the machine properly. The occasional sew-er will benefit from having someone show her the correct way to thread and operate the machine, a service you will not get from a "big box" store.
The second school of thought is to purchase a machine from the internet. There are certainly some good deals out there, but this is a case of "buyer beware." I have seen people purchase Bernina machines from the internet only to get just the machine, without the accessories. Is that really a deal? It's hard to make it go if you don't get the foot control and presser foot. The other thing we see is that someone purchases from the internet, then when there are problems with the machine, they want us to repair it under warranty. Guess what! Unless you purchase from an authorized dealer, the warranty is invalid. That's a 20 year warranty that is voided.
So you have to decide if coming to a dealer is worth the extra cost. Lessons on how to use the machine and the first year's service is included in the cost of the machine. And the lessons can be repeated as often as needed. And finally, we have a trade-up policy that allows you to trade the machine back in within the first year, and you receive the full sales price toward the retail of another machine. It's a great reason to support your local dealer! Plus purchasing machines and accessories keeps this small business in business.
You don't get that kind of service from a "big box store!"
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