A lot of people who sew ( I have a hard time calling them sewers in print) don't have a clue as to how important their needle is to the successful completion of their project. Today's topic is all about needles.
Several days ago, a customer called the shop to ask if we carried Singer sewing machine needles. We have a limited supply of Singer needles, because most machines can use the Schmetz brand of needles and we have a much larger supply of those. I told the customer this and she remarked that she had a very old Singer. I assured her we could help her and a few hours later, she came in and had with her a package of needles that looked like the original package that came with the machine. Inside the package were pieces and parts of needles, some obviously broken and others obviously bent.
She asked us for needles for her machine, and we asked her what size needle she needed. She said one that was like the ones in the package. We then told her that the size needle she needed depended on what fabric she was using. She was incredulous, asking us how we knew the needle would fit her machine. Sometimes we have trouble keeping our faces straight when we come across something that is so obvious to us. This dear lady was thinking that the size of the needle meant how long it is, not the diameter of it. That's why she was concerned that it wouldn't fit in her machine.
Most machines made in the last 30 years or so take the same type of needle: 130/705. The variations come in the diameter of the needle and the different points they have. Most of the time you will need a universal needle, which sews most woven fabrics. They range in sizes from a 60/8 (for very lightweight fabrics like chiffon) to a 110/18 (for very heavy fabrics. I can't even think of an example here because when I sew very heavy fabrics, I use a denim needle with a sharper point.) What do the two sets of numbers mean? The 60 is the metric version, and the 8 is the American one.
What happens if you use the wrong needle? If your fabric is very thin, and you use a needle that is too big, your seams will pucker and you will have large needle holes in your fabric. If your needle is too small, it will break.
What other kinds of points do needles have? There are a lot of specialty needles out there: quilting, embroidery, metallic, jeans and ballpoints to name a few. Each one is designed specifically for the task at hand. Quilting needles have sharper points to penetrate the layers of fabric involved in a quilt. Embroidery needles again have a sharper point to go through the fabrics as well as stabilizers. Metallic needles have a different hole in them designed to reduce the amount of friction that builds of when using metallic threads. Jeans needles are generally stronger and sharper, to go through the dense denim fabric. Ballpoints have a more rounded point to use on knits, so that the fibers are pushed out of the way, rather than broken, so your knit won't run like nylon stockings. There are other specialty needles too, but these are the usual ones.
The other mistake that people make is not changing their needle frequently. It is nearly impossible to tell if a needle is slightly bent or burred on the end. If a needle is not perfect, when it goes down to meet up with the bobbin thread, it can hit a vital part of your sewing machine. This often causes a burr on the hook, that vital part I was talking about, and the result of that can be threads that keep breaking. It can also result in ugly, crunchy noises, and those are never good for your machine.
So I change my needle when I begin a new project. There are two reasons for this. First of all, I want to match the size of my needle to the weight of my fabric. At this stage in my life, I have "mature" eyes, and I can no longer read the size that is etched into the shank of each needle. But I can read the much larger notation on the outside of the package. The other reason is I want to start my project with a new needle, because chances are I have used the old one longer than 6 - 8 hours of actual sewing time.
So make sure you use the correct needle and you shouldn't have a problem with your project. If you don't know what needle to use, just ask. It really is one of the easiest things that can cause the most problems. When someone is having trouble with their machine, the first thing I ask is, "When was the last time you changed your needle?"
www.schmetzneedles.com
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Why I sew
Through the years I have sewn many different types of things: garment construction for women, children and a few things for men, smocking, heirloom sewing, embroidery and even a little quilting, anything that can be done with a needle and thread. I began sewing a long time ago, when I was 13 and wanted stylish clothing. There was not a lot of money around our house, so sewing allowed me to have things that were in style at a lesser cost. In those days, you could save a good bit of money because fabric and notions were less expensive than ready to wear. My mom showed me some basics of pattern reading and I was off. The first garments were actually sewn on a treadle sewing machine that I still have. No I'm not that old - we did have electricity. But as I said, money was tight and my mom saved her green stamps to buy a Singer portable sewing machine. Finally a machine that would run under its own power and would do more than straight stitch forward.
Through junior high, high school and college, I made most of my own clothing. There were things that turned out well, and things that were disastrous, but all in all, I did pretty well. In college, I decided to major in Fashion Merchandising, where I took three sewing classes. The first was just a basic sewing class designed to give me skills I already had. The second was a tailoring class, where we spent a whole semester making a wool blazer, welt pockets and all. The final sewing class was called Flat Pattern and we were required to start with a basic sloper pattern and make all kinds of alterations to it to achieve various design elements. For our final exam, the instructor put a jacket with some unusual details on a mannequin and told us to make the pattern for it. To me this was the class that taught me the most. From it, I gained a true understanding of how garments go together and what is required to achieve the design elements I might want. I still use this knowledge today, some thirty years later. Whenever I am designing something, I still like to start with a pattern that is similar in silhouette and make the necessary changes to it to achieve the look I want.
When I became pregnant with my first child, I developed an interest in smocking. My next door neighbor was pregnant at the same time, and she knew how to smock. She showed me some basic stitches, and loaned me a book on smocking. When my child turned out to be a girl, I was delighted to be able to make her some sweet little outfits. Then my son was born, and I was able to make some neat little boy outfits for him as well. He soon outgrew them, but my daughter wore her little dresses up until she was in second or third grade. Her teachers knew her as "that little girl whose mommy makes her all of those sweet little dresses." And now this daughter has blessed me with a sweet granddaughter to sew for, so I am back in smocking mode!
As my daughter outgrew the smocking, I turned my interests into more adult clothing. During this time, I began working at a local fabric store that sold Bernina machines, and carried luscious fabrics for garments. I still work for this neat little shop. We sold beautiful silks, rayon challis, bridal fabrics, yummy cottons and linens. I of course knew the basics of sewing and during this time, worked toward making my sewing perfect. Gone were the days of taking shortcuts that nobody would know I took. Instead, my garments were as perfect on the inside as they were on the outside. As the sewing industry started turning away from garment sewing, and more towards quilting, the shop started bringing in more quilting fabrics and fewer garment fabrics. I tried to embrace this move, but honestly I am not a quilter and never will be. I have made two quilts in my life, and there was ten years between them. I can certainly appreciate the work that goes into them, and the eye for color that so many quilters have. But cutting fabric into little pieces then sewing them back together is just not for me.
I also started teaching a lot of private lessons at the shop. We offer some basic classes - beginning sewing and smocking, among others. Once students have gone through the basic classes, we find that many of them have very specific paths they want to venture into. That's where these private classes come in - one on one instruction pertaining specifically to the student's interest. I have had several very successful students, including two young ladies who were featured designers several years ago during Charleston Fashion Week. This has become a really big deal in our area, and this, along with Project Runway on television has really rekindled an interest in garment sewing.
Another thing that I have mastered over the last few years is a deeper understanding of sewing machines - how they work and what to do to keep them going. When I could no longer get the fabrics I loved for garments, I decided to become a machine technician. I have been trained to take the machines apart and put them back together, and usually don't come out with any spare screws when I'm finished. One of my jobs is to teach new machine owners how to use their machine. Not only do I show them what all of the buttons mean and how to use different stitches for different techniques, but I also teach them how they can troubleshoot their machine when they are having problems. Today's technology is amazing, and we have come a very long way since that treadle machine I learned on!
I started sewing as a teenager out of necessity, but now my sewing is a hobby I have been able to make a little bit of money from through the years. My plan with this blog is to share some of the knowledge I have acquired through the years. I have taught many classes and will begin sharing some of those. I love sharing my knowledge with others, and love to see them get as excited about sewing as I am.
Through junior high, high school and college, I made most of my own clothing. There were things that turned out well, and things that were disastrous, but all in all, I did pretty well. In college, I decided to major in Fashion Merchandising, where I took three sewing classes. The first was just a basic sewing class designed to give me skills I already had. The second was a tailoring class, where we spent a whole semester making a wool blazer, welt pockets and all. The final sewing class was called Flat Pattern and we were required to start with a basic sloper pattern and make all kinds of alterations to it to achieve various design elements. For our final exam, the instructor put a jacket with some unusual details on a mannequin and told us to make the pattern for it. To me this was the class that taught me the most. From it, I gained a true understanding of how garments go together and what is required to achieve the design elements I might want. I still use this knowledge today, some thirty years later. Whenever I am designing something, I still like to start with a pattern that is similar in silhouette and make the necessary changes to it to achieve the look I want.
When I became pregnant with my first child, I developed an interest in smocking. My next door neighbor was pregnant at the same time, and she knew how to smock. She showed me some basic stitches, and loaned me a book on smocking. When my child turned out to be a girl, I was delighted to be able to make her some sweet little outfits. Then my son was born, and I was able to make some neat little boy outfits for him as well. He soon outgrew them, but my daughter wore her little dresses up until she was in second or third grade. Her teachers knew her as "that little girl whose mommy makes her all of those sweet little dresses." And now this daughter has blessed me with a sweet granddaughter to sew for, so I am back in smocking mode!
As my daughter outgrew the smocking, I turned my interests into more adult clothing. During this time, I began working at a local fabric store that sold Bernina machines, and carried luscious fabrics for garments. I still work for this neat little shop. We sold beautiful silks, rayon challis, bridal fabrics, yummy cottons and linens. I of course knew the basics of sewing and during this time, worked toward making my sewing perfect. Gone were the days of taking shortcuts that nobody would know I took. Instead, my garments were as perfect on the inside as they were on the outside. As the sewing industry started turning away from garment sewing, and more towards quilting, the shop started bringing in more quilting fabrics and fewer garment fabrics. I tried to embrace this move, but honestly I am not a quilter and never will be. I have made two quilts in my life, and there was ten years between them. I can certainly appreciate the work that goes into them, and the eye for color that so many quilters have. But cutting fabric into little pieces then sewing them back together is just not for me.
I also started teaching a lot of private lessons at the shop. We offer some basic classes - beginning sewing and smocking, among others. Once students have gone through the basic classes, we find that many of them have very specific paths they want to venture into. That's where these private classes come in - one on one instruction pertaining specifically to the student's interest. I have had several very successful students, including two young ladies who were featured designers several years ago during Charleston Fashion Week. This has become a really big deal in our area, and this, along with Project Runway on television has really rekindled an interest in garment sewing.
Another thing that I have mastered over the last few years is a deeper understanding of sewing machines - how they work and what to do to keep them going. When I could no longer get the fabrics I loved for garments, I decided to become a machine technician. I have been trained to take the machines apart and put them back together, and usually don't come out with any spare screws when I'm finished. One of my jobs is to teach new machine owners how to use their machine. Not only do I show them what all of the buttons mean and how to use different stitches for different techniques, but I also teach them how they can troubleshoot their machine when they are having problems. Today's technology is amazing, and we have come a very long way since that treadle machine I learned on!
I started sewing as a teenager out of necessity, but now my sewing is a hobby I have been able to make a little bit of money from through the years. My plan with this blog is to share some of the knowledge I have acquired through the years. I have taught many classes and will begin sharing some of those. I love sharing my knowledge with others, and love to see them get as excited about sewing as I am.
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